3 Bet Poker Definition

The Value Three-Bet The value three-bet is the “traditional” three-bet and is the same as any other value bet. You believe you have the best hand, and you’d like to get more money into the pot while you have the advantage. Which hands deserve to be value three-bet is up for discussion. What is Three-bet in Poker? Three-bet (or 3bet)is the third bet (or second raise) in a betting sequence. There is a bet (1bet), a raise (2bet), and a re-raise which is the 3bet. They 3 Bet Poker Definitionallow players to boost their bankroll by playing without paying as soon as they sign up. The outcome: players will usually end up depositing funds for real money play.

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Three betting is a necessity in most any game to one degree or another, but 3-bet folding can cost you a lot of money. There are certain situations where it will drain your bankroll and other spots where it is the only reasonable play. As is the case with most any play in poker, there are a number of variables that you will need to take into consideration. It is first important to realize that much of the post-flop decision making is going to be largely determined by how you played the hand pre-flop. If you are going nuts with big plays pre-flop, you better be willing to commit post-flop as well. What many players fail to realize is that pre-flop play really is the framework for tough post-flop decisions.

The game of poker has its own slang or “poker talk.” If you are new to poker, learning the poker slang will greatly improve your knowledge of the game. From the small blind to the straight flush, here is a poker glossary of the important poker terms to know. Act: check, bet, raise, or fold. Action: whose turn it is, as in “Action is on. Guide to Polarized 3-Betting Ranges in Poker. Whenever you are 3 betting in cash games you need to know exactly why you are 3-betting. You need to be either 3-betting for value or 3-betting as a.

Stack sizes are almost always the primary factor when deciding whether or not you are in a position where 3-bet folding is viable. If you are playing with a deeper stack, there is a better chance that there will be room to let go of your hand. When you are working with a shorter stack, however, it will be harder to find a 3-bet fold that makes financial sense. Aside from stack sizes, position and your opponents will also factor into your final decision. Deciding your next move after facing a 4-bet should not be all that difficult, especially after you know what to look for.

Pre-Flop Scenarios

There are almost infinite different ways that you could be set up against a 4-bet. The best spot to be in is late position against just one opponent. This is as simple as it gets and gives you a significant advantage against your opponents. The worst scenario is a 3-bet in the blinds that ends up facing an eventual 4-bet. Needless to say, your decision should be much easier in late position than it is when you are in the blinds.

The biggest mistake that you can make with 3-bets is making one at all. If this doesn’t make sense, just think about it for a second. If you are in the small blind or big blind with TT or JJ, you may very well be stuck and not know what to do. A lot of players think that 3-betting here makes sense because it will allow them to “see where they are.” While this may be true, it is also a complete waste of money. If you re-raise with JJ in the SB and force folds, you know that you were ahead. If you re-raise and get 4-bet, you put yourself in a terrible spot. Now you need to decide whether to call, fold, or shove. It would make a lot more sense to simply see a flop and play the hand from there. This isn’t the most comfortable hand to play out of position, there is no arguing that, but it is much better than either wasting money or losing value.

You should always know exactly what you are going to do if you get 4-bet whenever you make a 3-bet. It seems that this should go without saying, but a lot of players truly do play their hands with no real game plan in place. I would be willing to bet that if you considered what you are going to do if you get re-raised, you will have a much better time overall and will be in a lot less tough spots. If you know what your next move is, you can scale your immediate play accordingly. For example, if you have decided that you are going to fold to a 4-bet, you can make your 3-bet a bit smaller so as to save yourself a little bit of money. If you keep your bet the normal size and actually want a 4-bet, there is nothing else that you can do but sit back and hope for the best. Scale your bets so that your later plans are factored into the end game equation. Saving a couple bucks here and there is a great way to boost your win rate in the long run.

When You Should (Can) Fold

The situations where folding a 3-bet hand is viable are much less frequent than those where you shouldn’t fold. Assuming normal stack sizes, most 3-bets are going to require 10-30% of your total chips, and it is usually closer to the higher end of that figure. Say that you are in a $1/$2 NLHE game. If an early position player makes an open raise to $10, this would mean that your 3-bet would need to be to around $35, depending on the intent. In this case, you are risking roughly 17.5% of a standard buy-in. If there were other players in the pot, you may need to raise to even more. Now, if you were playing with a $500 stack, this is when things start to get interesting and dynamics are shifted.

Using the same example as above, a $35 raise would mean that you have already risked a fair amount of your stack in relation to 100 big blinds ($200). Now, if you alter that stack to $500, you are risking much less than 10% of your total stack. Losing 10% of your stack is something that you can live with, but 17.5% starts to move into a range where even hands that are beaten need to come along for the ride. Deep stacks will mean everything and will easily allow you to let go of your hand.

When You Shouldn’t Fold

Short stacks are set-up for all in situations, and this is when you need to commit yourself to the hand. Let’s skew the example above to find a spot where you should not be folding. Pretend that your cards are totally unknown. Maybe you were betting for value or maybe you were 3-betting light (which would be bad here!), it doesn’t make a difference.

You are sitting at $1/$2 with $110. A player opens to $10, and you re-raise to $35 after one other player called the open raise. At this point, the open raiser shoves all in. Note that their stack size is completely irrelevant, only yours is important. Now, you have the option of calling $75 to win approximately $125 ($235 including your stack). If you won even 1:3 times, you would be generating a profit. This means that a 33% underdog is sitting in decent shape given the investment and relative pot size. As you can see, you would be hard pressed to find many hands that would find a realistic fold in this particular hand. If you are going to raise an amount that represents a significant portion of your stack, in this case about 35%, you can’t let go of your hand after you are re-raised. Will this cause a lot of variance? Yes, but you have to take the variance as it comes and make the proper plays, even if you know that you are probably crushed.

All that you need to analyze is whether your money that is already invested is too much to give up now. Using the example above, you can add 17% to your equity and re-analyze whether you should be in the hand. Yes, you may be involved in a pot where you are crushed, but a 35% underdog now has what is essentially 52% equity. Of course, this is a very artificial number, but this is the way that you need to look at it.

The game of poker has its own slang or “poker talk.” If you are new to poker, learning the poker slang will greatly improve your knowledge of the game.

From the small blind to the straight flush, here is a poker glossary of the important poker terms to know.

Act: check, bet, raise, or fold

Action: whose turn it is, as in “Action is on you.” Also, slang for gambling, as in “He loves action.” Or a lot of betting, like “The 2/4 game at Pala has a lot of action.”

Active Player:player still in competition for a pot

Add-on: additional chips that may be purchased to “add on” to your chip stack, usually at the end of the Re-buy period, though some tourneys allow add-ons earlier and some tourneys even allow for multiple add-ons (and/or Re-buys)

All-in: a player bets all of his or her remaining chips

Bad Beat: when a player has the best of it and the odds are heavily with him or her, but gets beaten in the hand by a long-shot draw

Bankroll:the money a player has set aside to gamble with

Behind: a player who acts after another player in a betting round

Benjamin: a hundred-dollar bill (Benjamin Franklin’s portrait appears on a U.S. $100 bill)

Best of It: the player who has the odds on his or her side

Bet:money initially wagered and put into the pot (during a given betting round, subsequent betting action beyond an initial bet is termed a “raise”)

Big Blind: the larger of two forced “blind hands” in community card games like Hold’em and Omaha; the big blind is generally located two to the left of the “dealer button”

Big Hand: a really good hand

Big Slick: Ace-King hole cards (see Hole Cards)

Blank: community board card that looks like it is harmless or couldn’t really help anybody

Bluff: a bet or raise that appears to represent a good hand, when in fact the bettor has a mediocre or at best a drawing hand

Board:(see also, Community Cards) the playing surface and the community cards on the “board” that are shared by all players in games such as Hold’em and Omaha. Players use the community cards to complete their hands.

Boat:full house (aka “full boat”). three of one card, two of another. ex. JJJ99

Brick and Mortar: a casino with a physical world spatial existence (as opposed to merely online or cyberspace); some casinos, like Pala, have both a brick and mortar and an online existence.

Broadway: ace-high straight

Bubble: in a tournament, one place away from making it to the money

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Busted: broke. Lost all chips and out of the tournament.

Button:(aka Dealer Button), disc that denotes which player is the “dealer” for that hand. Button position is dealt the last card and is last to act in each betting round

Buy-In:the amount of chips a player must buy in order to enter a card game. For tourneys, the buy-in is a set amount of money for a set amount of starting chips. For cashgames, buy-ins are generally expressed as minimums, but can have an optional limited or unlimited range beyond the minimum as well.

Buying the Pot: to win a pot with a bluff or semi-bluff that forces other players out

Call:to put in the amount that another player bet: “I call”

Calling Station: you bet and bet and he calls and calls; generally a weak player who calls too much but doesn’t usually bet or raise.

Case Card: last card of a given rank left in the deck… the other three are already out

Chasing: hoping an upcoming community card will “hit” to complete a so-far unmade hand

Check: to not bet when it is your turn. can say “I check” or tap on the table in a live game

Check and Raise: to check initially, but then make a raise if another player bets after your initial check

Chop:in tournament play, the last remaining players decide to split up the prizepool rather than play to the end; or, in a hand, where the end result is a tie and the pot is split up and distributed evenly to the tied players.

Community Cards:(see also, Board) the community cards on the “board” that are shared by all players in games such as Hold’em and Omaha. Players use the community cards to complete their hands.

Connectors:(see also, Suited Connectors) two or more cards in sequence; for example: 89 or 10J

Counterfeit:In Omaha Eight or Better, when the board pairs one of your low cards

Cracked: to lose a hand you were initially favored to win, as in “My Aces got cracked!”

Crying Call: a very reluctant call

Dealer:player or staff member who deals the cards out to players; however, see also, Button

Dead Man Hand: A famous hand that consists of the black eights and the black aces

Deep Stack:a tournament in which players begin with an amount of chips that is relatively high in relation to the blind or ante.

Dog:underdog. Not favored to win.

Dominated: a hand that is beaten due to shared cards. for example, A-8 is “dominated” by A-K

Draw: hand that needs additional cards to become a winning hand

Drawing Dead: when there are no cards left in the deck that will make a draw hand into a winner

Draw Poker: each player gets a set amount of cards and then can replace some of his or her cards with others dealt out from the remainder of the deck

Duck: a deuce, a 2

Early Position: approx. first third of players to act in a hand

Face Down: cards, like the hole cards, that are unexposed to other players

Face Up: exposed card that everybody can see

Fast Play: aggressive style emphasizing a lot of betting and raising

Favorite: based on odds alone, most likely hand to win

Fish: a novice or poorly-skilled player, expected to lose money

Flop: first three community cards dealt face up on the board

Flush: hand containing five cards of the same suit

Fold:to get rid of one’s cards, and in doing so forfeiting the right to any part of the pot.

Four-Flush: having four of the five cards needed for a flush… and hoping for the fifth

Free Card: a betting round where all players have checked, thus allowing the next community card to fall without anybody putting any money in the pot

Freeroll: a poker tournament in which certain qualifying players get in for free. “Freerolling” also is an expression sometimes used to describe somebody who has won a lot of chips already and is “rolling” through the game with other people’s money.

Four-of-a-Kind: Hand containing four cards of the same rank, like J J J J.

Full House: hand with two of one rank and three of another, like 9 9 J J J

Hand: the cards a poker player holds, combined with any community cards, to make the best five card combination

Head-to Head: aka “Heads Up”

Hi/Lo: type of poker where the highest hand and the lowest hand each take half the pot

Hole Cards: cards held by a player, unseen by other players

Implied Odds:what a player thinks his actual payoff will be if he hits his hand, relative to how much it will cost to play

In Front Of: a player who acts before another player

Inside Straight Draw: a draw where only one card will complete the straight, for example a hand like 6-7- – 9-10… needs an 8 to complete

Isolate: to bet and raise so as to get heads-up against a weaker hand or weaker player

Joker: a wild card, or slang for a really lucky card that came to complete a hand against odds

Kicker:unmatched card in a player’s hand that is not used except to break ties. Example, two pair 5-5 and 8-8 with A kicker beats two pair 5-5 and 8-8 with Q kicker.

Late Position: aprox. the final third of players to act in a hand

Laydown:to fold

Limit:the most that can be bet or raised at any one time (see also, Limit Poker)

Limit Poker:poker games where limits exist for betting or raising, as opposed to no-limit poker

Limp: to just call, rather than bet or raise

Live Card:a card whose rank has not yet appeared on the board (nor presumably in another hand)

Live One: a player likely to bet wildly and probably lose like a fish (see Fish)

Lock: a hand that cannot be beaten

Lock Up My Seat: a commitment to take a seat that is waiting for you

Longshot: a drawing hand that has the odds heavily against it and probably won’t be made

Look Up: to call somebody, as in “I’m gonna look you up.”

Loose: playing style that plays a lot of hands and often goes for longshots (see Longshot)

Made Hand: already solid. Don’t need to hit a draw to have a good winning hand.

Maniac:wild, loose player who bets it up with mediocre hands just to build the pot

Middle Position: aprox. the middle third of players to act in a hand

Monster: an excellent hand that is either a lock (see Lock) or at least probably won’t be beat

Muck: fold. To throw a hand away and toss it into the Muckpile. (see Muckpile) & (see Fold)

No-Limit: a player may bet any amount of chips up to and including everything he has in front of him or her

One Pair: hand containing two cards of the same rank, like Q Q

Overcard: a higher card. So a K is an “overcard” to a Q, and a Q is over a 9

Pocket Cards: see also- Hole Cards

Position: players relative position to the player who acts last; in flop games like Hold’em and Omaha, position is usually considered relative to the button

Pot:sum total of all antes, blinds, and bets put into the center of the table during a given poker hand. It is the pot for which players are competing to win.

Preflop:before the flop

Premium Starting Hands:holding among the best starting hole cards; for example, in Hold’em premium starting hands include A-A, K-K, Q-Q, and A-K, and possibly A-Q and J-J as well. Hi/Lo games also have low premium starting hands of their own, for example holding perhaps A-2-3-5 as a starting hand in Omaha Hi/Lo

Raise:adding more chips to another player’s original bet to make it more expensive for other players to continue to play for the pot

Rake:the amount of money taken out of a pot by the house (the dealer is the house’s representative in this process) as its fee for running the game; the rake is used to pay overhead, including equipment, facilities, utilities, and staff salaries

Reraise: raising another player’s raise

Ring Game: a cash game with a full table of players, usually seven or more for Stud and nine or more for Omaha or Hold’em

River: the fifth (last) community card on board

Royal Flush: an A-K-Q-J-10 of the same suit. The highest ranking hand in poker.

Satellite Tournament: a smaller stakes tourney in which the prizes are one or more entries into a more expensive major event

Set: three of a kind, consisting of a pocket pair plus a matching community card

Shorthanded: a poker game with five players or less, perhaps six or less

Showdown: final act of a poker hand

Slowplay: playing a powerful hand in a weak manner to disguise its strength and lure, or “trap,” other players into the action

Small Blind: located just to the left of the button, it is the smaller of the two forced blind bets preflop

Standard Raise: typically, three times the big blind

Steal the Blinds: bluffing to make the blinds fold

Straight: a sequence of five consecutive cards, like 6 – 7 – 8 – 9 – 10

Straight Flush: a sequence of five consecutive cards that are all also the same suit

Suck-out:to hit a longshot draw, typically on the river

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Suited Connectors: (see also, Connectors) two or more cards in sequence and of the same suit; for example: 8-9 or 10-J of Hearts

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Swing:fluctuation of a player’s chip count or even overall bankroll

Table Stakes: a player can only play with the money/chips he or she has on the table in front of him or her; the player’s bet, call, or raise is limited to the number of chips he or she currently has, and the player cannot buy, borrow, or produce more chips in the middle of a hand.

Three-of-a-Kind: three cards of the same rank held in a given hand, ex.: QQQ. see also, Trips

Tournament: a competition in which all players start with the same amount of chips and play continues until one player holds all the chips

Trap: to underplay or slowplay powerful hand so as to lure other players into betting

Trips: three of a kind

Turn: the fourth community card on board, following the flop

Two Pair: a hand that contains two different pairs, like QQ and KK in the same hand

Under the Gun: the first player to act in a round of poker; preflop, under the gun is to the immediate left of the button

Value Bet: betting a hand that is perhaps not a sure thing but that over time will win more than it loses

Wheel: (aka “Bicycle”) a five-high straight: A – 2 – 3 – 4 – 5

Wired: to have a pair in the hole from the start

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Now that you are familiar with all of the poker terms you can start playing poker online! Sign up today for a poker tournament to win real money!